Useful Information

This page is based on some of the information and advice we are asked for.  It will be updated as time goes by, and if you see any errors or anything which needs updated, please let us know. For information on equipment and clothing, see our separate kit list page.

Flights to Manaus

Direct international flights to Manaus are hard to come by. Currently, the only ones we're aware of are those from Miami and/or Caracas. At various times various airlines have tried direct flights from other countries, and it's always worth looking around - try flights from Bogota and Panama, for example - otherwise, you're generally stuck with coming through Sao Paulo. Airlines currently operating services from there inlcude Gol, Tam and Varig. And don't forget to investigate the Brazilian Airpass, if you're going to be travelling around a bit.

Reportedly, DELTA Airlines will be operating a new direct flight between Manaus and Atlanta from December 2008. Also, a company called TAME is now operating a service between Quito and Manaus.

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Overland to Manaus

If you're really adventurous, you can get to Manaus from Caracas or Porto Velho by road, and that's it. The Caracas - Boa Vista - Manaus route (via the BR174) is more viable than anything coming through Porto Velho (BR319) which to date remains unpaved for most of its length. You're more likely to get stuck there and have to take a boat.  TOP

Boats

The primary routes are: from the West - from Iquitos in Peru; from the East -  from Belem at the mouth of the Amazon;  and from the South - from Porto Velho. These trips generally take anything from 3 - 5 nights on a barco regional, and can be cheap and fun - but like many things here, the services are not necessarily as reliable as one would like, so allow plenty of extra time. We have a basic register here of boats operating these services, but it is impossible to keep it up to date - you are best making for the relevant port and asking around for the next boat. You'll need a hammock and you'll need to sling it on the boat VERY EARLY (like 11:00am if you're leaving that evening), as it gets crowded. TOP

Customs

As a Gringo and a non-resident, you can more or less get away with bringing anything in, but the best place to check for the official rules is at the website of the Brazilian embassy in either London or New York. The London lot are pretty unhelpful person to person, but I've no experience with the New York crew. Most of the customs and immigration people are pretty reasonable and polite in my experience, although coming in through Peru you should expect a pretty thorough search and to be automatically treated with suspicion. UPDATE: in March 2008, the first drug factory on Brazilian territory was uncovered by Federal Police near the Peru/Brazil border. In consequence, customs and immigration are currently likely to be all over you like a rash. TOP

Climate & best time to see Manaus

We often get asked what the best time is to visit the Amazon, and it's a difficult question to answer. Basically you have 3 variables to consider: the sun, the rain, and the river level.

If you're coming to fish, you'll want to come at low water, and you (probably) won't care whether it's raining or sunny. If you are coming for other reasons, however, you'll need to think carefully. The sunniest months are July to September (but you still get some rain). The wettest months are February to May (but you'll still get a wee bit of sun). However, if you want to see the beautiful beaches here, you'll need to come between September and January, when the water's low; and if you want to get deep into the flooded forest and navigate with ease all over the river system, you'll need to be here between April and August, when the level's up.  And if you like your weather particularly dramatic, August is always good for some fantastic electrical storms and torrential downpours.  To try to help you decide, below are some  statistics, and if you're still unsure, e-mail us and we'll try to guide you. Have fun!

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Rainfall

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Sunshine and humidity

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Temperature

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River Levels (Port of Manaus, Rio Negro)

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Money and credit cards

Although the banking system here has improved, many people who stay with us have spasmodic problems withdrawing money from the cashpoints in Manaus. We're never quite sure what the reason for this is, but it certainly includes mechanical and electronic faults, communication link problems, and machines running out of money etc. Also, we're in a sort of parallel universe here, where everything you thought you were familiar with back home mysteriously doesn't quite work here. For example: the HSBC bank in Brasil is NOT the same as the HSBC bank throughout the rest of the world (Brazilian banking laws have seen to that); and Visa in Brazil is NOT the same as international Visa, so some shops will not accept international Visa.  And banking machines here have a variable daily limit (presumably dependent on the amount of cash in the machine - one day it will be R$200, the next day R$1000). Oh, and incidentally, the maximum withdrawal, on a good day, is likely to be R$1000.

So, bring more than one card with you. The non-Brazilian cards that should work best are (in no particular order), Maestro, Visa, Mastercard.  I should also say that in spite of the occasional problem, these options are much better than bringing travellers cheques, which few people accept nowdays.

The easiest currency to exchange is the US Dollar. Euros can be exchanged (although it can still be difficult), and don't even think about bringing Sterling.  One more thing - the Brazilian Real is doing very nicely, thank you, and no-one really wants to be paid in Dollars any more.  And finally, you will  find that no-one here ever has any change. So avoid bringing or buying lots of R$100 notes. TOP

Malaria

Several guests have been advised that there is no need to take Malaria tablets while in and around Manaus, especially if they're only here for a few days. Whilst it is true that the incidence of malaria is remarkably low in Manaus, and more generally in black water areas, it is not true to say that it is nil. The decision is obviously yours, and I'm no doctor, but you should not travel thinking that you cannot catch malaria here. Allow me to quote my response to one of our guests who told me about the (incorrect) type of advice she received (with thanks to Valentina de Santis):

"...[The lodge you are visiting] is on black water, and there are fewer mosquitoes on black water than on brown water. However, it is not true that there are no mosquitoes and no incidence of Malaria (or Dengue or Yellow Fever or Japanese B encephalitis) on black water. The incidence is also affected by the season and the weather, so that one visitor may find they get no bites at all, while another may be covered in bites. And to put all this in context, Naice's parents live [in a black water area] and three years ago her mother caught malaria twice in one year, although no-one else in the family was affected. You should also remember that you could be unlucky enough to get bitten somewhere between the airport, the guesthouse and the lodge!  More information at www.traveldoctor.co.uk/malaria.htm (general info. on malaria) and www.traveldoctor.co.uk/samerica.htm#1sta (info. on tablets for  Brasil). 

Irrespective of whether you take prophylaxis or not, the best advice of all is to avoid being bitten - wear light (preferably linen) long trousers and a long-sleeved shirt between 05:30 and 06:30, and between 17:00 and 18:30, using repellent as necessary on hands, feet and neck. I have occasionally also put cotton socks on, although this does make you feel like you are being steamed like a pudding :)"

Now don't say you haven't been warned...      TOP